Natural Wines at Bruell Restaurants

Zack Bruell Restaurant Group is introducing a new line of highly acclaimed natural wines at two of his restaurants: L’Albatros in University Circle and Parallax in Tremont. Mr. H and I had the pleasure of attending the media preview last week, to sip and sample an assortment of these wines, and to snack on some expertly paired Parallax bites. Like their famous sushi...

...smoked salmon tartar...

...and tempura vegetables, among others.

Bruell's simplistic approach to food pairs well with natural wines, because they are distinguished by a biodynamic or organic growing process, coupled with minimal technological intervention during winemaking and cellaring. No yeasts, sugars or bacteria are added in the process. Fermentation is spontaneous from natural yeasts and bacteria present on the grape skins during harvest. The only additive can be a small amount of Sulphur for bottling stability. Often, the wines are unfiltered.

Tasting the wines on their own, then with food, and after they had sat for a while changed every sip's experience. These wines are always evolving. Their highly active characteristics make them an ideal pairing with contemporary foods that feature intensive flavors. One thing that I learned was that I've probably had a natural wine before, and just didn't know it.

The only one that I didn't care for was a Chardonnay that we sampled, but here is my favorite white and favorite red from the evening:

• 2013 Dry Tokaji, Oremas, “Mandelas,” Hungary- crisp, gooseberry, caramelized pineapple upside-down cake $44 (left)

• 2015 Mouvedre, Dirty & Rowdy, “Familiar Vineyard,” California-fresh strawberries, strudel, limestone $55 (right)

I'll be tracking these down.

Right now, diners can find 14 natural wines at L'Albatros and Parallax on a special wine listing, but they will eventually be integrated into the regular wine list and denoted as a natural wine. All fall at a very approachable price point.

The introduction of these wines onto their menus is part of an emerging movement that has upended an influential group of winemakers, Michelin-starred restaurants and sommeliers throughout the world. The trend has only really taken off in New York City, Chicago, and Portland in the United States. Julian Bruell, Director of Service, wants their restaurant group to be on the forefront of bringing this movement to Cleveland.

Disclosure: I was invited, with a guest, to a complimentary media preview and tasting. All opinions are 100% my own. 

Trip to Trentina

The Sawyers' new restaurant, Trentina, located in the heart of University Circle's world of arts and culture has garnished a lot of hype and speculation. This northern Italian-inspired restaurant focuses on an intimate and unique dining experience that you can't find anywhere else in Northeast Ohio. Adopting the concept of offering only a chef's tasting menu, that is all the rage in major "foodie" destinations across the country, was something new to our area. Some diners were hesitant. Could this concept, and high ticket price, work in Cleveland? I felt that if anyone was going to make it work, it would be the Sawyers. Their famed Greenhouse Tavern and Noodlecat have created quite the loyal following. The chef team behind these restaurants are quite good at their craft, and Trentina was going to push this reputation even further.

Nestled in the former Sergio's location, next to The Glidden House, it's quite small, but immediately charming.

It's intimate, and provides diners with a "experience" that isn't meant to be rushed. If you're there for the seven-course tasting, give yourself one and a half hours. If you're doing the full twelve-course Menu Bianco tasting, allow for two and a half hours.

We were there to get the full experience, and even though the restaurant is now offering a la carte options and a pasta tasting menu as well, we went right for the Menu Bianco ($115 each). Beverage pairings are also available, for an additional charge. We decided to order wine by the glass, and they made some excellent suggestions during the meal.

The menu will be changing often, to highlight their artistry and the seasonal ingredients that they source locally. You won't even be able to get the meal that Mr. H and I had, even though it was just weeks ago. So, I won't go into detail about the food itself, but here are a few images of our meal:

Each dish brings different variations of the course, and you won't be eating the same thing as the person next to you. So, you better like whomever you bring with you, because you're going to want to dig into their plate as well!

The portions are a tad more substantial as you get into the pasta and meat courses, but as you can see, these servings are small and it's intended to provide you with an experience of tasting many things in small amounts. However, the process is long, and we did leave there a little hungry after almost three hours of small bites. I love tasting many things in small portions, but I don't like it when the digestion catches up to you, and you leave a restaurant wanting more. Particularly at the high price of Trentina.

You get eleven courses, expertly designed by the chefs to showcase some of the best technique that I've seen on a plate in the Greater Cleveland area. The "extra" twelfth course is one where you can re-visit a favorite previous course. I loved that.

Now, the creativity and kitchen technique aside, I wasn't really impressed by our dining experience. Many of the courses were good, but I won't even call one "great." The flavor just wasn't there, in the way that I had expected. Also, the service fell short of my expectations. At that price point, and the high-class atmosphere, I expected the service to match. Drinks often went unfilled, servers stumbled over descriptions of the dishes often, and it just didn't have the polish that I think this place begs for.

For the most expensive meal that I've ever had in Cleveland, it left me disappointed. The price was high, portions a hair too small, outstanding moments for the food lacking, and service lackluster. It was fun to get all dressed up, to feel like we were experiencing something special, but this visit just didn't live up to my high expectations.

I'm not writing it off, and I'd certainly love to try the al la carte options or brunch, but it just didn't live up to the high-end, memorable experience that I thought we were going to have. For the price, it will be a while before I'd be back for the Menu Bianco. This is just my opinion, as I know others have been raving about their own experiences. I try to always be honest, to share my personal thoughts and experiences, and to welcome feedback and other opinions. If you've had a great experience there, feel free to chime in by leaving a comment.

Here's a funny tip: Visit the bathroom, and your bum will love the heated seat.

Trentina
1903 Ford Drive
Cleveland, OH 44106
216-421-2900

Monday Giveaway to Provenance

Happy Monday, folks! I don't know about you, but sometimes I need something to look forward to on a Monday. Getting back into the swing of things after a great weekend can be tough. So...I've got a fabulous giveaway for you today. Read on...

I was recently invited to attend a media event for a few local bloggers at the Cleveland Museum of Art to check out their new restaurant--- Provenance.

I was unable to attend because I was out of town for the Kentucky Derby, but they invited me to come in on my own. So I took them up on it last week. I snuck out for relaxing lunch with Michelle, and we picked a great day because the sun was shining and Cleveland was happy.

We had a brief tour of the more casual café, main kitchen, and event spaces. Then we settled into the dining room of Provenance for lunch. The menu isn't large, but several items sounded great and I think that anyone could find something between the salads, small plates, and entrees. Michelle went with the Provenance Cobb with poached chicken, granny smith apple, avocado, walnuts, cooked egg, pickled onion and bleu cheese dressing ($14). It was a beautiful presentation. One of the prettiest salads that I've ever seen.

I ordered the Bang Bang Shrimp Noodle Salad with cucumber, carrots, daikon, cilantro, rice noodles and spicy peanut sauce ($16).

Again, it was a gorgeous dish. I'm glad that the restaurant has embraced their surroundings and taken just as much care for presentation as flavor. Overall, it was light and refreshing but filling. Too many red peppers for my personal taste, but I'd order it again. I saw several other diners with this dish.

We finished up, and then took a stroll through some of the exhibits and grounds. It was a gorgeous day in Cleveland, and I just love looking out over Wade Oval.

The lunch experience was quick, but not rushed. So it was a prefect escape from the craziness of my workday. Parking around the University Circle area isn't a problem, but be prepared to pay. I found a two-hour metered spot in front of the museum, but there are also a couple of different parking garages or lots nearby. Most of the Cleveland Museum of Art is free to view, so you really can have quite a fun lunch excursion. They are open for Brunch and Dinner service as well, but the hours are slightly odd since it is located inside of the museum. Be sure to check out the website before visiting, and you can also make a reservation online.

I'll have to remember to schedule some business lunches over there! What a fun spot, but a little pricey for your average lunch. At least you know that with Chef Doug Katz (fire food and drink) behind the concept, you're bound to have a good meal.

So, one lucky reader will get to go check it out for themselves. They have provided me with one gift certificate valued at $100 to give away! Just leave me a comment below about what your favorite Cleveland museum or landmark is to visit, and you'll be entered to win. You can also gain a second entry by tweeting "I want to check out Provenance, thanks to @BiteBuff's giveaway at www.bitebuff.com." Make sure to leave a second comment on the post to let me know that you tweeted. I'll be selecting a winner on Friday, May 17th using random.org. Good luck!

Provenance
Cleveland Museum of Art
11150 East Boulevard
Cleveland, OH 44106
216-421-7350

Disclosure: I was provided with a $25 gift certificate to use towards my visit, and a $100 gift certificate to use as a giveaway. The thoughts and opinions are 100% my own.

Accent to Open

A small handful of us got a sneak peek at Scott Kim's (Shaker Square's SASA) new restaurant-- Accent in University Circle. Its modern and sleek look is bold, and you are immediately captivated by the walls and ceiling that look like this...

Look closely, it says "Accent" over and over again, illuminating by a deep passionate red. This is definitely the focal point in the room, and minimalistic furniture and decor don't take away from this work of art. Speaking of works of art...when the food started to arrive for the tasting, many compliments on presentation were handed out from the group.

Red Snapper, cooked on the robata grill (special Japanese grill that cooks at 1,000 degrees).

Some delicious raw fish and pickled vegetables.

I actually liked the salmon! It was in a zesty orange sauce, and I went back for seconds. I typically hate salmon.

The star of the evening-- Turkey Ribs.

Actually, the bird's clavicle bone. I've never seen this done before, and it will be a signature dish (a whole turkey leg on their tapas menu too) at the restaurant.

The restaurant will also be serving skewers of assorted meats and vegetables straight from the grill.

The three sauces served with the ribs and skewers were outstanding. I couldn't pick a favorite between the chimichurri, teriyaki (reduced down to a thick, sweet glaze), or spicy barbecue.

There were a few more dishes along the way, including SASA's signature French Fries, which made it over to this menu as well.

 But the evening ended with a sweet bite from the grill. S'mores!

They were so smokey and sweet, and a perfect bite to end the meal.

The Kims, restaurant staff, and executive chef Mike Lyons (formally of Chef's Garden) are excited to share their vision with the public. They officially open their doors on October 29th. Lyons "hopes that Cleveland is ready" for this unique concept. I think that we are. Diners can enjoy a more formal meal in the dining room, lined with custom booths, or a tapas-style menu in the more casual bar area. Two different concepts, two different menus. I look forward to a return visit once they open.

Accent
11460 Euclid Avenue
Cleveland, OH 44106
216-721-8477

Excuses and Cheese

Yikes, it has been over a week since my last post. Reason: our home computer has completely zonked out, it's on the fritz, kapooey, crashed...you get the point. I've been itching to get back to blogging, so I finally hauled my old college laptop out of storage and it will just have to do until we replace our laptop. But, ahhhhh...this feels good. I've had several dining adventures since I last left you, and I may have lost content for three that were waiting to be drafted when the computer died (still waiting to see if files can be saved), so I am certainly not short of content. But for the first post back, I just wanted to leave you with this...Cheese. Glorious Cheese. Yes, that is 14 different kinds of cheese, and they were a result of L'Albatros Brasserie's famous cheese service. Brandon is a God. He floats over to your table like out of a dream with a tray just full of more cheeses than you could imagine, and talks you through each kind as you make your selection. When he heard of our love for goat, cheddar, and bleu...he even added a few additional cheese "from the back" that he knew we would enjoy. I can't even begin to tell you all of the different cheeses that we sampled, but we thoroughly loved almost all of them so that is a testament to how well Brandon knows his sh*t...I mean, cheese.

This was all that was left...Well, that and happy tastebuds and bellies. This was my first time enjoying L'Albatros' cheeses, but it certainly wasn't the last. Go forth and cheese, my friends!

It May Have a Funny Name...

Anyone who pays attention to the restaurant scene in Cleveland has heard of Zach Bruell and his popular contemporary cusine at Parallax (Tremont), Table 45 (located inside the InterContinental Hotel by the Cleveland Clinic), and his newest restaurant L'Albatros Brasserie & Bar (University Circle). I've had the pleasure of dining at Parallax before (delicious modern seafood), haven't made it to Table 45 yet, and last night was my first time experiencing L'Albatros since its opening. I have to say that if my decision was based on the decor and atmosphere, I would not be going back. Bruell's contemporary trend was taken a bit too far with the cold white plastic chairs and table, minimalist artwork and decor, and simplistic (a.k.a. boring) bar area. Also a glass of wine runs you about $10. Now on to the food- which is where he really shines!

We started with the "French Toast" served with ragout of wild mushrooms and balsamic syrup ($8). Our waitress stated that it was their signature starter and very popular. The dish was very rich, but inventive and flavorful. The carmelized mushrooms and hint of balsamic syrup was a wonderful combination. The light, fluffy french toast squares just melted in your mouth. Two of us ordered the pasta special of the evening which included house-made noodles smothered in a light goat cheese fondue with grilled cauliflower. The dish was tasty and the portion was perfect, but I think I would have enjoyed my first choice off their regular menu a little better. I think it was the words "goat cheese fondue" that got me! Luckily, our other dining companion ordered my top choice: Seared Sea Scallops with brussel sprouts, noodles and pernod cream ($20). The gigantic scallops appeared to be seared to perfection, and they were nestled on a bed of house-made noodles. I may be back to try this dish for myself! We finished with the Warm Chocolate Brownie served with crème anglaise and vanilla bean ice cream ($7). It arrived warm as promised, and the ice cream was melting right into the thick gooey brownie. Umm, can you say heaven?!

Overall, I was impressed with the food and will probably overlook the atmosphere of the restaurant while dining there again. Rumor has it that Bruell is opening a fourth restaurant on East 4th in the near future. Keep your eyes peeled!

L'Albatros Brasserie & Bar
11401 Bellflower Ct.
Cleveland, OH 44106
(216) 791-7880

Mixed Feelings About Mi Pueblo

Last night my co-workers and I went to Mi Pueblo in University Circle. The real draw was 1/2 price margaritas- any size! You can't beat $10 for a pitcher of margaritas on the first "summery" day in Cleveland. It was a little disappointing that this restaurant doesn't have outdoor seating, but we decided that flavored margaritas and cheap Mexican was worth the sacrifice. Parking was great, they have a little lot behind the restaurant off of Euclid. Many of the shops/restaurants in that area do not. We settled into a booth with a good view for people watching.

This is where is starts to head south...It took the waitress about 15 minutes to take our drink order, and half an hour later we still didn't have menus. Once our waitress resurfaced, she realized that we didn't have menus and took our order quickly. As with most Mexican food, it came out shortly after, but at this point we had been waiting for almost an hour. At least we had tortilla chips, two types of fresh homemade salsa, and pickled carrots to keep our tummies from rumbling too loudly. The salsa was a highlight of the meal. It was very fresh and just the right amount of "kick". One unique thing about Mi Pueblo is that each dinner is served with a cup of chicken soup. Bizarre concept, but tasty nonetheless. I ordered the Enchilada Rojo Combinacion, which included two cheese or chicken enchiladas with red sauce, two small cheese quesadillas, refried beans, rice, salad and guacamole. The enchiladas were savory, but I did need to add a little hot sauce to satisfy my love for spice. The tortillas on the quesadillas were a little grainy and tough, so I left one on the plate. I am a huge guacamole fan, and this was pretty good. You could actually see the fresh cilantro leaves and it was chunky, which I love. I just could have used a little more.

All in all, it was an adequate meal with tasty, and CHEAP, margaritas. While there are many other BETTER Mexican restaurants in Cleveland, I do recommend their half-price Wednesday special on margaritas if you are in the area. Just don't go out of your way, and don't carry high expectations.

Mi Pueblo
11611 Euclid Avenue
Cleveland, OH 44106
216-791-8226